How to Install Solar Panels
By Brad Smith
So, you want to know how to install solar panels? It is simpler than you might think but, given the high voltages and high wire act involved, it is not for the do-it-yourselfer.
We will focus on the most common type of solar installations, roof mounted grid-tie solar systems. While battery based solar systems that provide backup power are in use, they are more common in off-grid locations. Since most of us live in homes that receive electric service, grid-tie systems without batteries dominate because they are much more cost effective than battery based systems. Almost all residential systems are roof-mounted so we will also ignore ground-mounted applications.
The first step is designing the solar system and determining the equipment specifications. We want to get into the installation process, so we will also assume that the design work is done and the system is ready to be installed.
Part 1: Mounting the array (the solar panels)
Mounting the array on the roof begins at the attachment points. The number and location of the attachment points will have been specified as part of the design. They are normally in a rectangular grid pattern and spaced 4-6 feet apart. The exact locations depend on the type of modules and rack system being used, the roof type and construction as well as roof and wind load calculations.
On asphalt/composite shingle roofs, L-shaped brackets are sometimes lag-bolted (a lag bolt is a big screw with a bolt head) directly through the shingles into the roof joists and sealed with roofing compound. Most other roof types require stand-offs with flashings and flashed standoffs are also a more durable and weathertight (but more expensive) alternative for composite roofs.
A standoff is simply a bracket with a flat base that has bolt holes and a post that will stick up through the flashing and serve as a mounting point for the rest of the racking system. A flashing is a flat piece of aluminum with a domed center (usually with a flexible rubber grommet) and a hole in the middle. The standoff is bolted through the roof into the joists while the flashing slips over the top of the standoff and the top edge tucks under the shingles and is nailed to the roof. The end result is a reliable, water tight seal that will last for years. The technique is the same one used to seal vent pipes and you can probably look up at your roof and see an example or two.
Once the roof attachments are secured, the next step is to install the rack itself. There are a variety of rack systems manufactured by a number of companies and all have similar characteristics. They are usually made of aluminum and have vertical and horizontal pieces that attach to the standoffs and form a grid to which the solar modules are attached. Irrespective of the particular choice of attachments and rack systems, the array is always positioned 4-6 inches above the existing roof surface. Solar modules (commonly referred to as solar panels) generate less energy as they get hotter and allowing room for air circulation underneath the panels is important to maximize efficiency.
Once the rack is in place, it is time to attach the solar modules. Some installers will pre-build assemblies of 3-6 modules to reduce the amount of on-site assembly, but modules are most often installed one at a time right there on the roof. The exact method varies depending on the type of rack system, but most have some form of sliding bolt to allow easy positioning and access to the bolts from above the modules. Most modules also have quick connectors for the wiring and simply plug together without any tools.
Getting the wiring right is critical and should follow the design specifications exactly. The modules are attached together in series strings of 8-12 modules per string. The configuration of the strings is based on the specific requirements of the inverter and modules being used; it has to be right or the system will not work.
Part 2: Connecting the wiring
Once the modules are mounted and all of the wiring connections are made, the array installation is pretty much done. There will be a positive and negative wire for each string of solar modules and the next step is to make the wire run to the inverter(s). This is good old fashioned electrical work and requires running electrical conduit (galvanized pipe) from the inverter location to the array. The conduit may be mounted on the outside of the house or may be routed through the inside of the house and pop out through the roof at the edge of the array.
However the conduit is routed, it will end up at the edge of the array and connect to some sort of junction box or combiner box. There isn’t any magic in these boxes, they just provide a place to make wiring connections that are secure from the weather. Local and national building codes provide very detailed requirements for the exact type of equipment to be used and your installer and building inspector should pay close attention to make sure that the right equipment is used.
Part 3: Installing the control equipment
The basic control equipment for a solar power system is pretty simple: an inverter and disconnect switches. The inverter converts DC power produced by the solar array into AC power that exactly matches that currently used in your home. Inverters also have a lot of safety and power management features, but converting DC electricity to AC electricity is their primary role.
Disconnect switches are essentially big, giant versions of a light switch that can handle the high voltage and amperage of a solar system. They are used on both the DC side to control the power coming from the array and the AC side to control the power coming from the inverter. The main purpose of the switches is to provide on/off switches so the system can be repaired or turned off.
The control equipment can be installed indoors or outdoors and is usually located near your existing electrical service. Indoors is slightly preferable to promote longevity, but the main goal is to keep them cool. Inverters are essentially big transformers; they can get hot and become less efficient and less reliable as a result. Avoid mounting them in direct sunlight and small, enclosed spaces.
Connecting the solar system to your existing household electrical system is very straightforward. The output from the solar system is fed directly into the existing breaker panel using a standard circuit breaker. The existing circuit breakers all take power from your utility meter and send it to the outlets, lights and appliances in your home. However, circuit breakers don’t care which direction the power flows so they handle incoming power from the solar system in the same way. The electricity produced by the solar system flows into your breaker panel and is used in your home. If the system is producing more power than you are using, the excess flows back out into the utility grid…and your meter run backwards.
Editor’s Note: This article is meant to provide a general understanding of how solar panels are installed, not as a do-it-yourself guide. A lot of the critical details are not discussed. The process also involves working on a roof (dangerous in itself) and handling up to 500 volts of DC current, easily enough to be fatal. The bottom line is, please do not try this yourself.
Bradford Smith is a former solar installer and founding member of the Renewzle team.




